Stepping into the shoes of a shoe designer

Image source:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
The_Red_Shoes_(1948_film)#/media

I am sure each one of us have at least 3 to 4 pairs of shoes. That's the basic minimum. (Though my 4 year old niece tells me that one needs at least a rack full of shoes like she has! :D) Basic function of shoes is to protect feet. One pair is enough to serve this purpose, but shoes that one wears while jogging cannot be worn to work. As protecting feet is not the only purpose, it has to suit your dressing too. Being well aware about the ill effects of wearing high heels shoes, just to make their legs more attractive women wear it! Style and comfort are also other 'functions' that a pair of shoes need to satisfy.
Comfort and style required for one action is different than other. This is the reason why we see a wide range of shoe types adorning shelves in retail showrooms. Basic categories are formal, informal/casual, athletic/performance shoes. Many other actions can be categorised under these basic types. Going to office, semi formal parties, attending a wedding are all occasions where one needs to wear formal shoes. Catching up a movie, outing with friends and family, leisure travel etc are informal occasions where one need not be very formal but adopt trendy look with casual footwear, which could be sneakers, loafers, slip – ons, sandals, flip-flops, clogs and so on. Athletic or sports shoes are used for various athletic activities like walking, jogging, running, gym and other specialised sports like football, basketball, badminton, tennis etc. 

Apart from this classification, shoes are also categorised as per the seasonal usage. During harsh winters boots covering not only feet but legs till knees or thighs are preferred. Open sandals or canvas shoes are comfortable for dry hot climates. Rubber shoes offer better resistance to muddy and slippery conditions due to high rainfall. Thus, climatic or weather conditions is one of the parameters for shoe design.  
The priority of style and comfort varies depending on the activity. e.g. in formal shoes, style is more important but for leisure activities comfort is utmost important, off course along with style. 

Marker Renderings By Stephen Lukes
Image source:http://conceptkicks.com/tag/marker/

Designing a shoe might look an easy task but it is quite challenging. Designers are involved in research studying the activity for which the shoe is going to be designed. They understand what role style and comfort plays in that activity by observing the users. Depending on the activity, what could be the suitable material for different parts like sole and upper is decided. Different materials like leather, canvas, other fabrics, rubber have different properties which are studied as part of research. This study helps to understand potential of the material and techniques that need to be used to manufacture the shoe. The way material gets folded to create the 3D cavity for foot, leads to many interesting details which can be wisely used as design elements. Fastening details for shoes can become part of embellishment to add up to the style of shoe. 
In case of athletic shoes, ergonomics plays an important role to enhance performance of the athlete. Ergonomics is the study of human dimensions and recommended postures. Designers step into athlete's shoes to understand their needs better. Research team is continuously working on new materials and technologies to improve performance, avoid injuries to the athlete. Innovation in materials and technologies lead to new designs, forms, textures and styles. e.g, Crocs is a design based on it's material. Memory foam used in Skechers shoe offer great comfort to the user.

Diamond Walker bespoke shoes - shoe making process
Image source:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FILYbLR2j2o

Lot of sketches are developed based on this research and design brief to check out different possibilities. Prototypes are made. Depending on the manufacturing facility sequence of manufacturing process is developed for each design. Some design houses believe in handcrafted workmanship, some of them have a blend of machine and craft work while in many places shoes are produced completely mechanically.
This gives us a fair idea about the complex work of a shoe designer. It is so specialised that there are designers who have been working on a specialised category of shoes throughout their career. Very few work across all different categories. It's not easy to be into shoes of a shoe designer! 

Some useful links
https://youtu.be/xJigV_vo0YA
https://youtu.be/b5Pp9wROkPo
https://youtu.be/XfrK-n-ek-E
https://youtu.be/Gt-EpA8vwgk
https://youtu.be/DdKkHhlZW0I
https://youtu.be/fE0G1L4rEJw
https://youtu.be/4J_kxwT9zX4
https://www.worldfootwear.com/news/2-high-tech-innovations-that-will-change-the-footwear-industry/2454.html

The jewel in the crown!

We human beings don't stop after satisfying the basic need; there is quest for seeking beauty in whatever we are doing! I think that is a core for any design activity. Our clothes are to serve the basic purpose of protection of our body from weather conditions. But as the civilisations developed we have gone more and more sophisticated evolving different costumes. In order to adorn our appearance we use jewellery accompanying the costume. It displays culture and traditions of that region. Jewellery is worn by both males and females. But as 'doing the things in a beautiful way' is one of the feminine virtues females are seen to be wearing more jewellery. 'Beautifying the wearer' is the main purpose of Jewellery. The set of traditional Indian ornaments covers almost all body parts from head, hair to toes.  

Sita, Image source: http://www.hindi-web.com

The urge to look beautiful is there in everyone that is why jewellery is seen to be worn by people of all socio-economic status. Royal classes could afford expensive jewellery with precious metals and gems but common people too worn jewellery which they could afford as part of their daily routine. I still remember illustration from Indian mythology of Sita during vanavasa or rishikanya Shakuntala wearing fresh flower jewellery. So when it's about jewellery, materials didn't matter much, 'act of adorning' has always been important.
Though jewellery is used everyday, there are special jewellery designs for special occasions like wedding ceremonies or other religious ceremony or classical dance performances.

Jewellery and utensils in Silver
Image source:http://www.pngadgilandsons.com

In Jewellery design, visual beauty is utmost priority. The designer has to have keen understanding of visual design along with knowledge of materials and techniques. Patterns and design of Jewellery are governed by the materials used and skill of the crafts-person. Traditionally goldsmiths used to work with precious metals like gold and silver with precious gem stones. Skills and knowledge was passed on from generations to generations. Since crafts-persons are involved in the craft from early ages they understood the materials and processes inside out. Traditionally, crafts-person and the designer used to be the same person. They practised working with a particular material using traditional techniques. It is difficult to find a crafts-person mastering different materials and techniques. Instead it is seen that the crafts-person mastered one material and techniques to mould that material to offer different products. E.g. goldsmiths offered jewellery, utensils made out of gold and silver.
Crafts persons from a particular region displayed similar designs and patterns influenced by art and cultural practices of that region. That is why Jewellery pieces from various regions have their own identity e.g. Jadau jewellery of Rajasthan and Gujarat, delicate Filigree from Odisha, Nath of Maharashtra.
Owing to the fact that the traditional gold jewellery was made for the Royals, the designs were very intricate depicting the Royal charm using precious gems. Whereas jewellery worn by common people does not display very intricate work. It lacked detailing. 

3D printed jewellery
Image source:https://3dprint.com/182807/jenny-wu-exone-3d-print-steel/

After industrialisation new materials and technologies were explored in jewellery making. 3D printed jewellery is popular. With the rise of Fashion industry, jewellery became an accessory used by fashion designers to complement their garments. Jewellery gained a different perspective from the point of view of fashion shows. With globalisation such forms of jewellery became acceptable along with traditional jewellery. Jewellery design is not a restricted field practised only by traditional craftspersons any more. Jewellery design programs are offered worldwide with variety of materials and techniques. 
In today's digital age with wearable technologies like fitness bracelet, wearable cameras and speakers, the boundary between jewellery as pure adorning element and a smart device is blurring day by day! 

Some useful links
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCTwbTMXDFE 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSmcpVUltfo
https://youtu.be/Qpex-fTdzEE
https://youtu.be/1xJAt-vFhPc
https://youtu.be/kenDTvkAd7k 

Spice it up with accessories

Image source:https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk

Image source : https://www.dhgate.com

Have you ever tasted strawberries with cream? And after that can you imagine having strawberries without cream? Off course not! I feel, that is exactly the role of accessories in fashion. Suitable accessories complements clothing of the wearer and adds value to fashion statement. Younger generations are well aware about fashion accessories and how it affects your look. I mean literally young. My four year old niece 'helped' me to choose a pair of shoes I should be wearing to accompany her to the park. ''These sports shoes are perfect for your track pants! Heels, you know you should wear only for parties!”, she added!
Handbags, shoes, scarves, sunglasses, wrist watches are all accessories we are using everyday, sometimes being unaware about how it is affecting rest of the dressing and our overall look. If chosen wisely it can accentuate the clothing or otherwise can contradict it badly. The accessory that accentuates your style statement need not be an add-on fashion piece like expensive jewellery; it could be something that you cannot escape wearing like footwear or a bag. Suitable size, shape of a bag can balance the outfit and body shape of the wearer. Width, material and placement of a belt can be used to enhance the waist or hide it depending on wearer's body type and outfit.

Different types of belts

Traditionally in India, jewellery seems to be predominant accessory worn in everyday life not only for festivities. Footwear is another. Scarf or dupatta in traditional Indian context, I believe is inseparable part of clothing and never seen as an accessory. For males the traditional accessory over different regions has been headgear, footwear and jackets in some parts. But in western fashion the list of accessories is quite extensive. They are broadly categorised as those which are 'worn' and those which are 'carried'. Handbags, purses, eyewear, umbrellas, wallets, canes, hand fans are accessories which are 'carried' while jacket, scarf, shawl, belt, hat, socks, stockings, gloves, bows and ties, jewellery, wrist watch are some of the accessories which are 'worn'. 
In the context of total look of the wearer these products are referred as 'Accessories' but they serve some function to the user. e.g. Handbags are to carry essentials while on the go, Hats and sunglasses protects from harsh sunlight, footwear protects feet while jewellery adorns the wearer. Thus it serves the purpose of convenience, safety or attractiveness. While satisfying one of these functions it adds value to the overall look and hence named as 'accessory'. 

Earlier these variety of products were handcrafted. The skill, creativity of crafts person led him or her to be emerged as a trusted brand. Louis Vuitton and Guccio Gucci are examples of such brands in fashion world who started as master craftsperson in leather products and travel accessories. Fashion designers used to outsource accessory design to other specialist crafts person. Later they started working on in house design teams for different accessories and offered a 'total look' under their own label. The meticulous design process, exhaustive efforts and creativity justifies the expensive pricing at which these fashion accessories are available. The luxury segment products exhibit intricacies in terms of details, creative approach, material exploration and manufacturing process. 

Image source
https://www.porsche-design.com/en/Fashion-Sports/Fashion/Shoes/

'Design process' is the soul of these designer collections. Few of us are aware that most coveted automotive brands like Porsche, BMW, Ferrari and like offer their own collection of fashion accessories. Consumer electronics brands Apple and Samsung offer smart watch which could be termed as fashion accessory. Design language of such brands is so powerful that it is reflected in their fashion accessories too which consumers yearn in their fashion statement. 
Though these products play complementary role in the overall look of the wearer, each of them are a design saga in themselves!  

Some useful links     
https://youtu.be/tq4ZVdyGpIE
https://youtu.be/N-vR0MWnrKI
https://youtu.be/xnN_Z8XMOr4
https://youtu.be/vWtk47HxXpM
https://youtu.be/9oCVLTjlLB0
https://youtu.be/nCk_5-9cVCE
https://youtu.be/8Uk_XxAudq8 

Note:

The writer has no rights on the images used in this article. 

Fashion and You...

I have been talking about how design is part our day to day life. Every action that we do, design is involved in it in some way or the other. I have discussed different design disciplines and how they affect our everyday activities or we can also put it in this way that bringing more life in these activities gave rise to these design disciplines. 
Receiving feedback from people that these small reads are helping us to gain a different perspective to look at things really encourages me. People share that they have started noticing details of the products and spaces around them. Sensitising more and more people towards design is one of my goals for writing these posts, as I believe design impacts us all!
One of my friends asked me about my last post 'Dress up your attitude!' how fashion design affects us, we common people? We cannot afford designer clothes displayed in a fashion show. In fact some of the clothes look so weird to be worn in real life.
What we see in fashion show is creative work of designer based on a 'theme'. The theme need not be from our day to day life. It being a creative show it takes liberty to break away from practical themes. It's an opportunity to witness fantasy! At the same time it gives clues to the audience which could help them evolve their own style. 
“Fashion is what you're offered four times a year by designers and STYLE is what YOU choose” - Lauren Hutton (American model and actress ). 

I think this is the role of fashion in our daily life. It keeps us updated about current trends in clothing and accessories such as fabric, colours, print and patterns. This helps us to come up with our own dressing style everyday. In India, it's not only fashion shows, magazines, celebrities but also Indian Cinema and TV shows that influences current trends in fashion. Which in turn influences the clothing available at retail clothing stores which is affordable to masses. Fashion influences are so evident that no one can forget solid chiffon sarees worn by late Sridevi or Bell bottom pants of Amitabh or casual look of Karina from Jab we met. 
Everyone wishes to look their best. How you dress is how you are perceived by  others. It becomes your style. Few makes conscious efforts to select clothing by keeping in mind the whole picture, own personality, comfort, occasion, trends. Those who can do this succeed in coming up with their own style. Awareness about latest trends help choose right clothing for right occasion. For practical clothing comfort is utmost important. There is no point in wearing a Lycra dress on a hot day of sight seeing no matter how stylish it looks on the wearer. Costume designers do exactly this, they style the actors as per their character that they are playing. It is not true that only expensive, branded clothing is required for a great style. The key is to choose appropriately as per your personality and occasion.

Same dress looks different on different people
Image source:https://lovin.ie/lifestyle/fashion-beauty/this-new-asos-
feature-shows-the-same-clothes-on-different-body-types

Famous fashion designer Oscar de la Renta says "Being well dressed hasn’t much to do with having good clothes. It’s a question of good balance and good common sense.” 
Many of us like the fashion of celebrities and we aspire to look that charming. Copying the clothes ditto won't make us look like them as every person is unique and have their own way of carrying clothes. Same dress will look different on different people. 
So I would like to sum it up with quote by Oscar de la Renta. “Fashion is about dressing according to what's fashionable, style is more about being yourself.”
As mentioned earlier Fashion is not only about clothing but accessories are integral part of it. More about it in coming post. 
Some useful links
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4TuLSx3doEA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Es-6kFYe9ME
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yAz6FOUvKA&t=310s

Dress up your Attitude!

http://www.jiangluosan.net/FamousFashionDesignerSketches290nykalhlu/

In my last post I talked about fabric and what could be the next one to follow? Off course, clothing, apparel, fashion. This is the most popular stream of design, people from all socio-economic class are aware of it! What comes to your mind when you hear the word 'Fashion'? Glamorous models walking the ramp, celebrities flashing on red carpet flaunting in Designer wear, big fat weddings with talk of the town 'Designer bridal wear'; isn't it? Well, what we see is only the final outcome of the laborious process that's happening on the backstage for months together by the designer and the team.

It's interesting to know about the hard-work that goes into making these wonderful designer fashion clothes. It all starts from an inspiration, the theme. Designer researches on the theme, looks for inspirations to come up with basic sketches which undergo lot of refinement in the process of getting finalised. Once the design sketch is ready, fabric for the same is sourced. It could be directly available in the market or could be woven or printed as per the design requirements. Patterns(templates) are then made generally out of paper or other plain fabric to make prototypes of the garments based on the sketches. This is a testing phase and therefore iterative i.e. it goes back and forth till satisfactory results in fitting are achieved. Then final fabric is cut as per templates and stitched as per details. This is tested on model and final finishes are done after that. Apart form clothing it also include other accessories like headgear, bags, footwear, jewellery etc. That is the whole process it goes through before we see it on the model in a fashion show.

Rahul Mishra Collection in Paris Fashion Week
Image source:https://www.woolmarkprize.com/news/
rahul-mishra-debuts-at-paris-fashion-week/

Like the process, the history of fashion design is interesting to know. In India clothing was influenced by the regional culture, art and craft practices, climatic conditions. Clothing and accessories of Royal families would display the grandeur in every detail like fabric weaving, motives, embroidery. The value of dress was judged on the quality of fabric and work than who made it. For common people clothing was of similar type which varies according to the region. On intentional scenario too it was similar situation, where Royals got their clothes made from dressmakers as per their own style. During19th Century in France, English designer Charles Worth, for the first time designed dresses with his own label. He dictated his customers what to wear than following their demands. This started the beginning of Fashion houses and fashion industry. Post Independence slowly international fashion influenced Indian Cinema. But post globalisation with global exposure international fashion started influencing common people too. 

Fashion was not restricted up to occasional clothing but emerged with many possibilities like formal, casual, bridal, sports etc. During 1980s Indian fashion designers started establishing themselves on International platform. Today many designers have made mark and have presence of their label across the globe.

Fashion industry is based on trends. It needs to change by every season to keep the industry going. Researchers  forecast trends which are followed globally by fashion houses and retailers. Trend forecasters determine colours, patterns, textures, fabric those would dominate upcoming season. Clothing is second largest industry in the world ans generates as many job opportunities.

Today in India, with the help of fashion designers many textile craft practices are being revived and have seen application in modern garments. Indian textile craft and design is once again sought after on international scenario.

More on fashion accessories design in the next post.

Some useful links

https://youtu.be/RhPiaqKWMcw

https://youtu.be/sjLBbWbBTPc

https://youtu.be/367veujwj_Y

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTxT0vL8EcQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ReD9RSQ1vlo

Weaves of creativity!

Image source: http://www.cityshor.com/pune/banjaras

We recently had a long journey through widespread streams of communication design. You must have noticed that most of communication design work, we can appreciate through our visual and auditory senses. Another stream of design which is perceived using visual senses is textiles. Off course tactile perception is equally important in textiles. The word 'textile' originates from Latin word 'textilis' which means 'Woven'. Weaving process gives fabric self textures both tactile and visual.

We feel like touching a beautiful texture of a curtain, getting wrapped in a soft cotton quilt is such a joy, it's difficult to avoid temptation of cuddling a cute furry soft toy. We want soft cotton cloths during summer and warm woollens in winters! In short, we keep appreciating fabric for different qualities unknowingly. Here I am talking about textile design which, I feel is like extension of graphic design, as prints and patterns are inseparable identity of any piece of cloth; traditional, modern, woven, non-woven, natural or synthetic. I really enjoy the visual treat by taking a stroll in a fabric market. Colours, textures, patterns, prints, feel are all elements of such visual treat.

Image source: http://minister-industries.kerala.gov.in

India has a rich tradition in textiles. Every region of India has wide variety of textiles derived from local counters. 'Woven fabric' had major contribution in Trade and commerce of ancient India with foreign countries. Indian cotton, silk and muslin clothes have always been popular and in demand all over the world. Cotton is woven all over India. Each region has it's own distinctive character ranging from weaving technique, knitting, dyeing process, colours, motives, patterns using different printing processes or embroidery. Few examples of Indian traditional textile related crafts are intricately woven Pashmina shawls of Kashmir, Phulkari work from Punjab, Mirror work from Rajasthan, tie and dye varieties from Gujrat, Chanderi fabric from MP, fine silks from Benares, Balucheri, Bengal, Paithani from Maharashtra, Ikat and Kalamkari from Andhra, Kanchipuram silk from Tamilnadu. The list of this treasure is endless.

Traditional fabrics are crafted on hand-looms. The final product is a blend of complex processes of selection of yarns as per required result, selecting colours, dyeing yarns, pre weaving treatments, generating design of border and other patterns, actual weaving process. Apart from technical know-how of the weaving process artisans have to use their visual design skills to come up with fine fabric.

Image source: http://www.flagprintingmachine.com

Post industrialisation textiles are mass manufactured in industries. Synthetic fibres are used to create durable and economical fabrics. Research activities in the field come up with fabrics for special requirements like fireproof fabric. The process of digital printing on textiles has opened up enormous possibilities in terms of visual creativity.

A textile designer has knowledge of different fabric manufacturing processes, various materials like natural, synthetic fibres as well as visual design expertise to work with new patterns, prints, colours of fabrics. Two major sectors where textiles are widely used are furnishing and garments. Roles of textile designer include coming up with designs of fabrics for various purposes, make samples for construction of fabric, research on colour and trends forecast for new development, look for inspirations and themes for new design development. It's about experimenting with colour, texture, processes, patterns, materials, techniques. Textile designers work for fashion and garment houses, furnishing studios, furniture and automotive upholstery, other textile accessories like bags. They can have their independent studios. In short sky is the limit to weave their creativity!

Some useful links

https://youtu.be/iF5wef6lUXY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wb0Hpj9VfVE

https://youtu.be/FCarXRadOnk
https://youtu.be/a-2vxvNmYhY

Entertainment, entertainment, entertainment!

storyboard

Image source: http://www.evolvemedia.tv/free-storyboard-templates-

for-filmmaking-projects/

Watching a movie is a trip to a different world. The story that is being communicated is made so realistic that audience feels to be part of that environment. What enables the storyteller to create such enchanting effect? Is it the way the story is being narrated? Yes, but not only that. Reading a story and watching a story on screen are very different experiences. While reading you are visualising it in your own way but on screen the audio visual experience that you get adds another dimension to the story telling process. Whatever you witness in the cinema hall forces you to believe it to be real. It is a holistic effect that is designed using various techniques to narrate the story.

The film making process can be understood by visualising it in three stages. First is the preparation before shooting, second is actual shooting process and third is putting everything together like visuals, sound etc. as a final product. These are known as pre-production, production and post production stages. This is a common process that we follow to complete any task in a presentable manner; first the preparation, then actual task and in the end it's presentation. Considering various aspects to be worked on to come up with the final product, film-making is a complex process. Design has role in all three stages of film-making.

The groundwork begins with a story idea which is converted into a screen play; scene by scene story. This story in text is put in form of series of visuals like a comic strip in a  storyboard. The storyboard helps in understanding the characters and environment in great detail. It's done by a team of concept designers and graphic designers. Final storyboard leads to the design and selection of locations, sets, characters, costumes, props etc. The detail in which the environment is designed gives the film realistic effect. Audience starts believing it to be real. Thus preparations are done before film shoot upto minute detail to save on time and budget. 

filmshoot

Image source: http://www.bhopalonline.in/city-guide/film-shooting

-locations-in-bhopal

During production stage, the film is captured as a video scene by scene. Audience is looking at the film through the camera. Each frame captured through the camera is going to impact the viewer's perception about the story. Cinematographer designs each frame keeping in mind what effect the director wants and how the story should be progressing. Lighting, camera positions, angles, lens focus, movement such details are carefully selected so as to get depth in the shot as it's going to be viewed on two dimensional screen.

Adding visual effects

Image source: https://onset.shotonwhat.com/gallery/the-power-of-

visual-effects/

Once all the scenes have been shot post production stage begins. The raw shooting is edited for better visual appearance. Colour corrections are done, unwanted clips are removed. Special effects are added. Sounds like dialogues, songs, background music are added. The music is generally composed during pre-production stage. With all these post production treatments the film is ready as a final product to entertain audience.

Other communication design products in entertainment sector are game design. In digital and virtual reality game design visual designers contribute in creating the realistic environment used as setting of game. Game designers work on the strategy to enhance participant and audience satisfaction and pleasure. 

After this read, I hope you will appreciate the grand efforts by creative team that goes in the making of film apart from glamorous cast that you see on screen!

Some useful links:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5EoMcoUI2Q

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RQsvhq28sOI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CmRxjtjSc1E

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d5E_zB7pmlY