Stepping into the shoes of a shoe designer

Image source:https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/
The_Red_Shoes_(1948_film)#/media

I am sure each one of us have at least 3 to 4 pairs of shoes. That's the basic minimum. (Though my 4 year old niece tells me that one needs at least a rack full of shoes like she has! :D) Basic function of shoes is to protect feet. One pair is enough to serve this purpose, but shoes that one wears while jogging cannot be worn to work. As protecting feet is not the only purpose, it has to suit your dressing too. Being well aware about the ill effects of wearing high heels shoes, just to make their legs more attractive women wear it! Style and comfort are also other 'functions' that a pair of shoes need to satisfy.
Comfort and style required for one action is different than other. This is the reason why we see a wide range of shoe types adorning shelves in retail showrooms. Basic categories are formal, informal/casual, athletic/performance shoes. Many other actions can be categorised under these basic types. Going to office, semi formal parties, attending a wedding are all occasions where one needs to wear formal shoes. Catching up a movie, outing with friends and family, leisure travel etc are informal occasions where one need not be very formal but adopt trendy look with casual footwear, which could be sneakers, loafers, slip – ons, sandals, flip-flops, clogs and so on. Athletic or sports shoes are used for various athletic activities like walking, jogging, running, gym and other specialised sports like football, basketball, badminton, tennis etc. 

Apart from this classification, shoes are also categorised as per the seasonal usage. During harsh winters boots covering not only feet but legs till knees or thighs are preferred. Open sandals or canvas shoes are comfortable for dry hot climates. Rubber shoes offer better resistance to muddy and slippery conditions due to high rainfall. Thus, climatic or weather conditions is one of the parameters for shoe design.  
The priority of style and comfort varies depending on the activity. e.g. in formal shoes, style is more important but for leisure activities comfort is utmost important, off course along with style. 

Marker Renderings By Stephen Lukes
Image source:http://conceptkicks.com/tag/marker/

Designing a shoe might look an easy task but it is quite challenging. Designers are involved in research studying the activity for which the shoe is going to be designed. They understand what role style and comfort plays in that activity by observing the users. Depending on the activity, what could be the suitable material for different parts like sole and upper is decided. Different materials like leather, canvas, other fabrics, rubber have different properties which are studied as part of research. This study helps to understand potential of the material and techniques that need to be used to manufacture the shoe. The way material gets folded to create the 3D cavity for foot, leads to many interesting details which can be wisely used as design elements. Fastening details for shoes can become part of embellishment to add up to the style of shoe. 
In case of athletic shoes, ergonomics plays an important role to enhance performance of the athlete. Ergonomics is the study of human dimensions and recommended postures. Designers step into athlete's shoes to understand their needs better. Research team is continuously working on new materials and technologies to improve performance, avoid injuries to the athlete. Innovation in materials and technologies lead to new designs, forms, textures and styles. e.g, Crocs is a design based on it's material. Memory foam used in Skechers shoe offer great comfort to the user.

Diamond Walker bespoke shoes - shoe making process
Image source:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FILYbLR2j2o

Lot of sketches are developed based on this research and design brief to check out different possibilities. Prototypes are made. Depending on the manufacturing facility sequence of manufacturing process is developed for each design. Some design houses believe in handcrafted workmanship, some of them have a blend of machine and craft work while in many places shoes are produced completely mechanically.
This gives us a fair idea about the complex work of a shoe designer. It is so specialised that there are designers who have been working on a specialised category of shoes throughout their career. Very few work across all different categories. It's not easy to be into shoes of a shoe designer! 

Some useful links
https://youtu.be/xJigV_vo0YA
https://youtu.be/b5Pp9wROkPo
https://youtu.be/XfrK-n-ek-E
https://youtu.be/Gt-EpA8vwgk
https://youtu.be/DdKkHhlZW0I
https://youtu.be/fE0G1L4rEJw
https://youtu.be/4J_kxwT9zX4
https://www.worldfootwear.com/news/2-high-tech-innovations-that-will-change-the-footwear-industry/2454.html

The jewel in the crown!

We human beings don't stop after satisfying the basic need; there is quest for seeking beauty in whatever we are doing! I think that is a core for any design activity. Our clothes are to serve the basic purpose of protection of our body from weather conditions. But as the civilisations developed we have gone more and more sophisticated evolving different costumes. In order to adorn our appearance we use jewellery accompanying the costume. It displays culture and traditions of that region. Jewellery is worn by both males and females. But as 'doing the things in a beautiful way' is one of the feminine virtues females are seen to be wearing more jewellery. 'Beautifying the wearer' is the main purpose of Jewellery. The set of traditional Indian ornaments covers almost all body parts from head, hair to toes.  

Sita, Image source: http://www.hindi-web.com

The urge to look beautiful is there in everyone that is why jewellery is seen to be worn by people of all socio-economic status. Royal classes could afford expensive jewellery with precious metals and gems but common people too worn jewellery which they could afford as part of their daily routine. I still remember illustration from Indian mythology of Sita during vanavasa or rishikanya Shakuntala wearing fresh flower jewellery. So when it's about jewellery, materials didn't matter much, 'act of adorning' has always been important.
Though jewellery is used everyday, there are special jewellery designs for special occasions like wedding ceremonies or other religious ceremony or classical dance performances.

Jewellery and utensils in Silver
Image source:http://www.pngadgilandsons.com

In Jewellery design, visual beauty is utmost priority. The designer has to have keen understanding of visual design along with knowledge of materials and techniques. Patterns and design of Jewellery are governed by the materials used and skill of the crafts-person. Traditionally goldsmiths used to work with precious metals like gold and silver with precious gem stones. Skills and knowledge was passed on from generations to generations. Since crafts-persons are involved in the craft from early ages they understood the materials and processes inside out. Traditionally, crafts-person and the designer used to be the same person. They practised working with a particular material using traditional techniques. It is difficult to find a crafts-person mastering different materials and techniques. Instead it is seen that the crafts-person mastered one material and techniques to mould that material to offer different products. E.g. goldsmiths offered jewellery, utensils made out of gold and silver.
Crafts persons from a particular region displayed similar designs and patterns influenced by art and cultural practices of that region. That is why Jewellery pieces from various regions have their own identity e.g. Jadau jewellery of Rajasthan and Gujarat, delicate Filigree from Odisha, Nath of Maharashtra.
Owing to the fact that the traditional gold jewellery was made for the Royals, the designs were very intricate depicting the Royal charm using precious gems. Whereas jewellery worn by common people does not display very intricate work. It lacked detailing. 

3D printed jewellery
Image source:https://3dprint.com/182807/jenny-wu-exone-3d-print-steel/

After industrialisation new materials and technologies were explored in jewellery making. 3D printed jewellery is popular. With the rise of Fashion industry, jewellery became an accessory used by fashion designers to complement their garments. Jewellery gained a different perspective from the point of view of fashion shows. With globalisation such forms of jewellery became acceptable along with traditional jewellery. Jewellery design is not a restricted field practised only by traditional craftspersons any more. Jewellery design programs are offered worldwide with variety of materials and techniques. 
In today's digital age with wearable technologies like fitness bracelet, wearable cameras and speakers, the boundary between jewellery as pure adorning element and a smart device is blurring day by day! 

Some useful links
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCTwbTMXDFE 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iSmcpVUltfo
https://youtu.be/Qpex-fTdzEE
https://youtu.be/1xJAt-vFhPc
https://youtu.be/kenDTvkAd7k 

Spice it up with accessories

Image source:https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk

Image source : https://www.dhgate.com

Have you ever tasted strawberries with cream? And after that can you imagine having strawberries without cream? Off course not! I feel, that is exactly the role of accessories in fashion. Suitable accessories complements clothing of the wearer and adds value to fashion statement. Younger generations are well aware about fashion accessories and how it affects your look. I mean literally young. My four year old niece 'helped' me to choose a pair of shoes I should be wearing to accompany her to the park. ''These sports shoes are perfect for your track pants! Heels, you know you should wear only for parties!”, she added!
Handbags, shoes, scarves, sunglasses, wrist watches are all accessories we are using everyday, sometimes being unaware about how it is affecting rest of the dressing and our overall look. If chosen wisely it can accentuate the clothing or otherwise can contradict it badly. The accessory that accentuates your style statement need not be an add-on fashion piece like expensive jewellery; it could be something that you cannot escape wearing like footwear or a bag. Suitable size, shape of a bag can balance the outfit and body shape of the wearer. Width, material and placement of a belt can be used to enhance the waist or hide it depending on wearer's body type and outfit.

Different types of belts

Traditionally in India, jewellery seems to be predominant accessory worn in everyday life not only for festivities. Footwear is another. Scarf or dupatta in traditional Indian context, I believe is inseparable part of clothing and never seen as an accessory. For males the traditional accessory over different regions has been headgear, footwear and jackets in some parts. But in western fashion the list of accessories is quite extensive. They are broadly categorised as those which are 'worn' and those which are 'carried'. Handbags, purses, eyewear, umbrellas, wallets, canes, hand fans are accessories which are 'carried' while jacket, scarf, shawl, belt, hat, socks, stockings, gloves, bows and ties, jewellery, wrist watch are some of the accessories which are 'worn'. 
In the context of total look of the wearer these products are referred as 'Accessories' but they serve some function to the user. e.g. Handbags are to carry essentials while on the go, Hats and sunglasses protects from harsh sunlight, footwear protects feet while jewellery adorns the wearer. Thus it serves the purpose of convenience, safety or attractiveness. While satisfying one of these functions it adds value to the overall look and hence named as 'accessory'. 

Earlier these variety of products were handcrafted. The skill, creativity of crafts person led him or her to be emerged as a trusted brand. Louis Vuitton and Guccio Gucci are examples of such brands in fashion world who started as master craftsperson in leather products and travel accessories. Fashion designers used to outsource accessory design to other specialist crafts person. Later they started working on in house design teams for different accessories and offered a 'total look' under their own label. The meticulous design process, exhaustive efforts and creativity justifies the expensive pricing at which these fashion accessories are available. The luxury segment products exhibit intricacies in terms of details, creative approach, material exploration and manufacturing process. 

Image source
https://www.porsche-design.com/en/Fashion-Sports/Fashion/Shoes/

'Design process' is the soul of these designer collections. Few of us are aware that most coveted automotive brands like Porsche, BMW, Ferrari and like offer their own collection of fashion accessories. Consumer electronics brands Apple and Samsung offer smart watch which could be termed as fashion accessory. Design language of such brands is so powerful that it is reflected in their fashion accessories too which consumers yearn in their fashion statement. 
Though these products play complementary role in the overall look of the wearer, each of them are a design saga in themselves!  

Some useful links     
https://youtu.be/tq4ZVdyGpIE
https://youtu.be/N-vR0MWnrKI
https://youtu.be/xnN_Z8XMOr4
https://youtu.be/vWtk47HxXpM
https://youtu.be/9oCVLTjlLB0
https://youtu.be/nCk_5-9cVCE
https://youtu.be/8Uk_XxAudq8 

Note:

The writer has no rights on the images used in this article. 

Fashion and You...

I have been talking about how design is part our day to day life. Every action that we do, design is involved in it in some way or the other. I have discussed different design disciplines and how they affect our everyday activities or we can also put it in this way that bringing more life in these activities gave rise to these design disciplines. 
Receiving feedback from people that these small reads are helping us to gain a different perspective to look at things really encourages me. People share that they have started noticing details of the products and spaces around them. Sensitising more and more people towards design is one of my goals for writing these posts, as I believe design impacts us all!
One of my friends asked me about my last post 'Dress up your attitude!' how fashion design affects us, we common people? We cannot afford designer clothes displayed in a fashion show. In fact some of the clothes look so weird to be worn in real life.
What we see in fashion show is creative work of designer based on a 'theme'. The theme need not be from our day to day life. It being a creative show it takes liberty to break away from practical themes. It's an opportunity to witness fantasy! At the same time it gives clues to the audience which could help them evolve their own style. 
“Fashion is what you're offered four times a year by designers and STYLE is what YOU choose” - Lauren Hutton (American model and actress ). 

I think this is the role of fashion in our daily life. It keeps us updated about current trends in clothing and accessories such as fabric, colours, print and patterns. This helps us to come up with our own dressing style everyday. In India, it's not only fashion shows, magazines, celebrities but also Indian Cinema and TV shows that influences current trends in fashion. Which in turn influences the clothing available at retail clothing stores which is affordable to masses. Fashion influences are so evident that no one can forget solid chiffon sarees worn by late Sridevi or Bell bottom pants of Amitabh or casual look of Karina from Jab we met. 
Everyone wishes to look their best. How you dress is how you are perceived by  others. It becomes your style. Few makes conscious efforts to select clothing by keeping in mind the whole picture, own personality, comfort, occasion, trends. Those who can do this succeed in coming up with their own style. Awareness about latest trends help choose right clothing for right occasion. For practical clothing comfort is utmost important. There is no point in wearing a Lycra dress on a hot day of sight seeing no matter how stylish it looks on the wearer. Costume designers do exactly this, they style the actors as per their character that they are playing. It is not true that only expensive, branded clothing is required for a great style. The key is to choose appropriately as per your personality and occasion.

Same dress looks different on different people
Image source:https://lovin.ie/lifestyle/fashion-beauty/this-new-asos-
feature-shows-the-same-clothes-on-different-body-types

Famous fashion designer Oscar de la Renta says "Being well dressed hasn’t much to do with having good clothes. It’s a question of good balance and good common sense.” 
Many of us like the fashion of celebrities and we aspire to look that charming. Copying the clothes ditto won't make us look like them as every person is unique and have their own way of carrying clothes. Same dress will look different on different people. 
So I would like to sum it up with quote by Oscar de la Renta. “Fashion is about dressing according to what's fashionable, style is more about being yourself.”
As mentioned earlier Fashion is not only about clothing but accessories are integral part of it. More about it in coming post. 
Some useful links
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4TuLSx3doEA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Es-6kFYe9ME
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5yAz6FOUvKA&t=310s